This is one of the task some people look at and tend to think it would be easy to wire. It is an easy task looking at it on paper. But after the wire is pulled is where the confusion begins. If you pull the switch leg off one three-way and the feed wires on other three-way it’s much easier to keep track of your connections. The complexity comes into play when the switch leg is pulled from the same box as the feed wires (neutral & Hot). Keep your feed and switch led on opposite three-ways and things are much easier to figure. If you can wire a 4-way light switch circuit and you are not an electrician then you are one of the elite. If you need to ask a question make sure you have all your 3 wire pulled so we can get your lights going today.
I have a low voltage lighting system that makes a clicking sound at the power booster (Lutron model #ngrx-pb) that is connected to a 120v to 12v transformer (2 independent feed transformer totaling 600 watts, sea gull lighting model 9464-12) when the lights are turned on for the first time in the morning. The clicking sound corresponds with a section of the LV lighting strip bulbs (they flicker when the clicking sound happens). After a period of time the lights gain intensity as they continue to flicker until eventually they completely turn on and the clicking noise stops (after roughly 10 minutes) .
While this was happening i put a multimeter on the circuit breaker that the transformer is connected too and had a fluctuation from 0v to apx 90v. This continued until the lights turned completely on and the clicking noise stopped.
Could this be a faulty breaker? bad connection at the breaker? corrosion where the breaker connects to the panel? or would it be further down the line at the transformer or possibly the power booster which is causing the clicking noise?
Thanks
This is an answer to a question left unattended for several days. It is about this homeowner asking why his lights were blinking and this is the best I could answer with the info I received.
Florescent lighting is the subject of his question. This may help someone.
my answer:
Do you have a starter in any of these fixtures? Starters are non-existent on the new style florescent fixtures but there are plenty of older florescent fixtures still around that do use starters. Starter’s are built into the fixture separate from the ballast. It’s averages about 1.5 inches long by about 3/4 inch diameter-round aluminum housing, approx 1/2″ round. It has 2 prongs that fits in base then locks in place by twisting clockwise 1/4 turn.
If the florescent tubes come on after regular building power is applied and if the ballast or starter weakens the starter begins turning itself on and off. After a very short while it turns completely off and turning the switch on and off is the only solution to try to force the starter to turn back on. Then after a while longer it burns completely out and a new starter is required. Sometimes the ballast and starter both ‘need to be replaced because the old blink will put a strain on both possibly burning both out.