Hidden electrical wiring questions can be difficult to explain. Being we not able to visually inspect your project providing good pictures and documentation along with some troubleshooting skills is important. Must provide as many details as possible when conversing. Scheduling a service call with a Licensed Electrician may be the end result.
investigate: Is the light fixture controlled by wall plate switch or by a push button switch on the fixture?
After some investigation: Possible neutral back feeding or incorrectly wired and shared on unknown 2nd-phase? This is one of the most dangerous situations in residential but could be totally different situation on commercial job.
This is a very serious situation! Get it fixed.
Existing ceiling surface-mounted pull chain broken so lite not switching on/off, so you want to use screw-in socket adapter with pull chain?
If you have a questions try not get your information from searches on the internet. If any of the above sounds familiar you need a licensed master electrician. These types of questions are questions people ask when they are leaning towards a diy repair. This is a very slippery slope and you may fall off. These questions are only a few of many asked before deciding to call a licensed electrician. In my experiences some of these questions are signs of a potentially extensive electrical problem. Unusual electrical wiring problems are usually worse than they look. If you are questioning wither to call a licensed electrician and any of these questions sound familiar please do not make any repairs yourself! Just ask me a few questions.
circuit to bedroom seemed to have shorted, testing with multimeter reveals 117.8 volts at outlet and switch terminals in boxes, yet no functionality of lights or outlets. possible causes?
Loose wiring.
I have a stand alone humidifier that went defunct on me. Decided to wire it straight thru to the fans since I had previously eliminated an inline (power) humidity(?) sensor to fix a separate problem before. This year the little printed circuit control board decided to interrupt the operation so I eliminated it and currently am currently operating on the high side of the fans.
Want to use a spdt toggle switch to wire up the operation for use on ‘both’ high and low sides. I can figure the wiring to the switch but don’t know which wires to use for the “low” side. Right now I have the black wires together and the whites together for the high operation. Each motor has what I would call two windings… a black and blue wire to a winding on one side and then a red and white to a winding on the other side.
Since the blacks and whites are currently used, I’m wondering if the blue going in with the black is the low side power and the red coming out the other side would be the requisite neutral (although I think I probably got lucky just by putting blacks and whites together and should stick with white as a neutral). But, what would the red wire be for?? This is where I need help.
What do you have the blacks and whites connected to or are they just wire nut together in that plastic casing- black to black and white to white? All I see is just them running down into this plastic casing.
My house was built in ’62. I have a plumbing leak in front yard and am replacing with PEX pipe from meter to house. Existing water line is galvanized pipe and has a copper ground coming across a span of 20 feet from the breaker box to the galvanized pipe. Several years ago when planting azaleas in front of the house I found a ground wire coming thru the wall directly from behind the breaker box. Can I disconnect the one going to the galvanized pipe and attach it to another grounding rod outside since there will no longer be metal pipe going out into the yard? Later I am changing all inside water lines to pvc.
Yes, you are doing the right thing. Most places the codes do not allow the main water line be anything other than steel or copper. You must not have to adhere to this rule. But driving two ground rods 15feet or more apart is the correct thing to do in a case like yours. I have had to drive 2 ground rods many times due to plumbing pipe situations. But if the proper distance is not maintained the second ground rod does no good. I assume the existing ground and ground rod you are speaking about is for your meter ground? You should have one ground rod for your main breaker box and one for your meter. Some places want both grounds to start at main breaker box and some this way. I think one at meter and one at main is more correct.
i live in a mfg home, half has power other half doesn’t, hired a eclectric guy who just check power box and said i have 200 amps so you have a short, i’ve checked every outlet and switch and still can’t find the issues. any suggestions where do i go next. am fix almost everything but this one have me going crazy, all outlets are wired correctly. the park manger said it would be under the house, i’ve yet to crawl under there cause am not sure what to look for? had this issues close to a month, the other night while laying in bed the lights came on for a few seconds then went off. the electric guy just looked at panel and charge me and left, i had to put the cover on, will not be using him ever again…
Sounds like you need to start at main breaker outside. Need to check if both phases have 110 to ground. If the electrician checked the outside breaker and told you it was okay he did what you ask him to check, but he just checked the outside power coming in. So you need to go to your inside breaker box and start there. Most of the time when half power is gone it is the main breaker. Mobil homes have to main breakers most of the time, one outside and one inside. If you have a main breaker inside and you do not have 110 on both phases then it is the main breaker that needs changing out. If you do not have a main breaker inside and the outside main breaker is good then you have either a bad bus inside in the indoor panel or several bad breakers.If you do not feel comfortable doing this I would get an electrician or someone with more abilities.