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What distinguishes this site is our dedication to providing detailed, accurate answers when questions are asked thoughtfully. Please be clear and include as many specifics as possible in your initial inquiry. When questions are well-detailed, I aim to deliver thorough responses that may go beyond your original request, offering insightful and practical guidance. With 25 years of experience as a licensed master electrician, I’m passionate about helping you avoid larger issues and ensuring safe, effective solutions. To get the most precise answers, please use correct electrical terminology in your questions best you can use it. Examples such as white wire, black wire, red wire, neutral, hot, ground (green), grounded (neutral), feeder, branch circuit, 110-volt branch circuit, 220-volt branch circuit, 240-volt disconnect, line amps, load amps, meter current, total watts, electrical panel, service entrance, meter base, underground feeder, wall enclosure, ceiling box, surface-mounted wall light, flush-mounted ceiling light, surface-mounted smoke detector, 110-volt outlet, GFCI (not GFI), arc-fault breakers (15 or 20 amp), outdoor lights, 200 amp panel, and more. Thank you, and happy posting!
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I am wanting to change from a 240v hot water heater to a 240v tankless hot water heater. The install instructions say I will need to have three 2-pole 40-amp breakers with #8 wire on both hots from the breakers to the tankless hot water heater electrical connections. My outside electrical breaker power feed box is full of breakers with no spares. The hot water heater that I now have is getting power from the outside box on a 30-amp double pole breaker. Can I just use the power wire that is going to the old water heater and install a breaker box just for the 3 double pole breakers with the #8 wire to the new heater from the new breaker box?
How are you doing? I would not install the disconnect the way you explain. If you need any more help let me know. Thanks.
Not sure if I put this in the right place, I hope so! I am looking into building my own concession trailer (can be customized cheaper than having it built by someone else). Im just a little lost on power supply. Some locations will have direct hook up to the local power, others I will have to operate using my own generator. From my research, I have found that installing a residntial “back up” generator may be my best route (8000W).
My confusion comes into play with the transfer switch and whether or not I actually need a breaker box too. My idea is to simply install a transfer switch and to completely eliminate any other breaker box (being that the transfer switch has breakers). I would then install a singular “power inlet” on the exterior of the trailer as usual. At this point all I would have to do is simply swap whether the power cord is plugged into my generator, or directly into local power source.
Being that my idea doesn’t require the generator AND direct power being hooked up at the same time, I don’t see any issues. But I’m not an electrician, thats why Im on here.
Hope this makes sense.
Any help is appreciated.
A transfer switch and small breaker panel would be needed. You would need the transfer type of switch that locks out normal power when generator is in use and visa-versa. Setting it up by explaining how to wire along with gathering a complete material list would also be needed but way to much to do here. It sounds like you would know when to stop and hire a licensed electrician. Those trucks can be loaded with electrical very easily if not careful when planning things.
I just built a pole building shop. I have installed a 125 amp service panel in the shop and it is connected up and has power. I will be wiring the shop this winter/spring.
I have a switch in my house, next to the back door that turns on the porch light. What I would like to do is this:
1.) I’d like to turn on/off the exterior lights on the pole building when I turn on/off the porch light switch in the house.
2.) I would also like to have a switch in the pole barn that I can use to turn the exterior lights on/off too.
3.) I’d like to use a RF type of switch so I don’t have to run a wire from the shop to the switch in the house.
I’ve heard that I can even control lights like this using my smart phone. Is any of this possible?
If so, what specific parts/equipment do you recommend I buy.
and finally, How difficult is this to set up?
Thanks,
Scott
To be honest with technology today anything is possible. I would look online. I can think of a couple of ways to do this but wireless is not one because of cost. If you were to use cheap rf antenna w/controller on your pole shed and rf switch of some kind at house lightning would be your worst enemy. Check around online and check back with me. Maybe we can figure something out. Keep in mind today’s internet devices are controlled by one controller with cable/DSL internet plug in to give life to the apps. So grounding is controlled thru the lines. I would most likely rule out the wireless thing unless you want to buy a cell phone controller unit. This kind comes with a monthly bill, extra equipment and additional grounding. This is a very expensive way to do something that simple.
Good points.. Thanks. Still researching.
I want to runs schedule 1/2 inch schedule 40 conduit from one surface-mounted steel box to another. The conduit has threaded bushings cemented on each end, which are secured to the boxes with lock nuts.
1. Is it necessary to secure the wires or cable inside the boxes? If so, how? I do not see any kind of clamps for this use.
2. May I run 14-2 Romex inside the conduit, or must I strip off the cable’s jacket?
Thanks
Per National Electric Code all metal j-boxes must be bonded to the grounding system. About your second part, as long as you strip the Romex back to proper point it is okay to use. I have a question, why cant you use PVC j-boxes? That would do away with having to provide a bond for those 2 metal boxes.
Re: Using schedule 409 conduit.
Yes, I can use a plastic junction box instead of the metal one, but the problem remains: Do I have to secure the wires INSIDE THE BOX? Is there a fitting or clamp for that?
Thanks for the reply and advice.
Vince
If PVC j-box is used no bond is needed to the green grounding wire. Metal is a conductive material and plastic is not.
I’m sorry that I am not being clear. The issue is not grounding.
If I were wiring with Romex into a metal (or even plastic) box, there is a connector that clamps onto the cable, or in the case of plastic boxes there is a one-way “gripper”. Both of these devices prevent the cable from being pulled out of the box.
Do I need to use some kind of device to prevent wires or cable from being pulled out of the box (say from the other end of the conduit? Am I being too nervous?
Thanks for putting up with me.
Vince
Thanks.
This is a great site, and I thank you for taking the time to answer my (and others) questions.
Best regards,
Vince
Just want to know if I can safely use a 230V appliance plugged into a 15A/250V outlet (through-the-wall A/C unit). Basic rule of thumb for non-std household receptable: “If the plug fits, don’t worryaboutit”?
Thanks.
What is the maximum amps needed for the appliance? Look at nameplate.
I have a simple circuit recently installed in a loft above a garage. Both are completely finished, i.e. sheetrock, insulation, paint, etc… It seems that perhaps the sheetrockers have placed a screw that has somehow shorted my ground and hot (black wire) between the switch and the 5 lights connected in parralel. Would it be possible to use the white wire in the circuit from the switch to the lights as the hot (black) and use the existing black wire (that is shorted) as the neutral and the ground as the ground? (The lights and wiring are inaccessible)
Never ever do this, re-run a new wire of same size and type.
That is not approved for underground use, but pvc is the best for that installation. As far as using rigid, it would depend on where this is running underground. Sometimes rigid is necessary.
My home uses a massive amount of electricity, and no mater what I do it doesn’t seem to go down. I have replaced lights with LED, I replaced my water heater 3 years ago with a more efficient one. I replaced my heat pumps with geothermal, yet I consistently use 2X the electricity of my neighbors, as reported by BGE and in talking with them. I use over 2400KW per month at my home. My neighbors use about half that.
I think there is something wrong with my house wiring or something, but what type of inspection would I get to determine this, and what is the typical cost for this in the Maryland area?
Home circuit is 220Amp.
If your home has no more electrical items than your neighbors and similar in size and your bill is constantly higher, I would say your service needs replacing.
Background: Eaton 4′ load center in garage, bottom about 2 feet off the floor, top at about 6 feet. I am installing a flush mounted (i.e., in, not on, the wall) transfer switch from Home Depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-30-Amp-6-Circuit-Transfer-Switch-30216A/202216471?cm_mmc=Shopping|VF&gclid=CKfo2sOt48cCFQqSaQod-ZQBnQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
The transfer switch has an 18″ flexible metal conduit attached to the bottom, and is clearly intended to run to the bottom of the load center. Unfortunately, that means my transfer switch will be about 2 feet off the floor (or 6+ feet off the floor if I tried to enter the load center from the top).
One option is to rewire with a much longer flexible metal conduit and conductors, go into the load center from the bottom, and place the transfer switch at a convenient height.
Another option would be to go thru the stud into the side of the load center, but there’s no knockout at a convenient location, and I’m not sure how I could do this without pulling the entire load center out of the wall first. Connecting the conduit would also be a challenge.
Third option. Since this is all inside the wall, do I need the flexible metal conduit at all? Can I run the individual conductors from the transfer switch thru the stud into the side of the load center? There’s a knockout in the side towards the bottom that would work, but I’m not sure how I would get an NM/SE connector installed with the stud in the way. Is there something else I could use?
Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
No matter what where or how, a transfer switch has same codes as load centers, transfer switch handle has to be located between 4-5 foot off finished floor. This is not flexible.
Background: Eaton 4′ load center in garage. I am installing a can light in the ceiling above the load center, with a switch and GFCI outlet to the left of the load center. The easiest way to run romex from the can is to use a fishtape to pull it down inside the wall from the crawl space above the garage and into the load center, on thru, then out the bottom, then left thru a stud, and up to the switch. There are already nice big holes in the top plates above the load center.
Is it permissible to run romex into the top of the load center and then straight out the bottom like this? If so, are NM/SE connectors required at both entry and exit?
Yes you can run through a existing load center. And yes the romex connectors are always needed.
I have a CKT Breaker that randomly trips. No overload, no short ckt, Just trips randomly Sometimes days before it trips and sometime mins. I dont have a clue. There are NO GFI reciptals in the dead ckt Just 4 wall sockets. Any ideas? im lost.
Bad breaker most likely.
I am interested in a limited single device solar power supply. Say, for instance, a portable spa, or a window air conditioner.
As an example, the spa is 240V 60amp AC. It is currently hard wired into the panel box (about 30ft of #8 copper) with a GFCI breaker (another 15 ft or so to the spa, same #8 copper wire). I know I would still need an electrician to configure the wiring as I am no electrician, but am lost on the feasibility of it.
Is it feasible for me to take it off grid and power it via solar powered battery? How can I figure out the power usage so that I can then determine how many batteries/solar panels I would need to accomplish it?
Lower cost Solar system are mainly used for everything in the house except 220volt items. The lighting load that are only one or two 15 amp breaker loads. The cost for heavy loads such as AC units, electric hot water heaters, dryer. It would be much larger investment to operate any 220volt equipment. Unless you plan to spend upwards over 20,000.00 I would stick with the lower cost solar systems.
I have had 7 Hunter Fans and 1 Casablanca Fan installed in a new construction home, with wall mounted light and fan speed switches that came from the respective manufacture. All of the fans when switched to high speed are operating slow, lights are working normally. Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
We do not troubleshoot ceiling fan units VIA Internet. Only external switches and wiring.
Shop outlets for 220V string of 50 A 4-wire receptacles…~30′ run down a straight wall…my question is how to daisy chain 6-Ga wire from outlet to outlet…Burndy taps in a J-Box and drop to the outlet separately or is there a way to wire in a series and not overfill box?
Also want to run 20A twist Lock 3-wire run for shop tools along with the 50A listed above…same question–how to run from outlet to outlet without overfilling box…
Both outlets will be in square 4×4 boxes…running PVC conduit and originating from main breaker panel in shop.
Thanks
You can run as many as you want in parallel but not sure why unless you have a safety issue forcing you to do this way. Using one SO cord laying on ground in safe manner would be much cheaper. But remember installing more plugs does not increase anything as far as amps. It only gives you more plugs to plug into.
Hi, I currently have a dedicated 45amp cable with switch form inside my house (consumer unit) to supply the garage (mini consumer unit) lights and sockets! I want to know is it possible to split the feed before it reaches the garage consumer unit, to run a hot tub 32amp (only 16amp required)? or do I have to have another feed?
I do know that I will need a qualified person to do the work
Chris
NO
Can a 15 foot 1 to 3 electrical extension using AWG 12/3 wire with a 5-15P plug carry up to 20 amps if plugged into a 5-20R receptacle?
As far as code, a male or female cord cap has to have same rating as the wire its connected. Also I believe the NEC code requires Arc fault and GFCI protection on extension cords.
I have a Philips imported 1950’s stereogram from New Zealand which I understand runs on 230v mains supply. Would I have to do anything other than change the plug to make it work here in the UK. I have all the wiring diagrams to hand but know nothing about this subject, help appreciated.
The UK is different than here in USA. I would rather pass..
Hi I am installing a bathroom fan/light. In the wiring diagram at the switch box they have the neutral wire from the 120 VAC in connect to neutral of a 14-3 going to the light and the neutral of a 14-3 going to the fan. However what I have in place is a 14-3 and a 14-2. Can I connect the neutral from the 120VAC in to just the neutral of the 14-3 and then at fan/light pigtail it to both fan and light? Or is there a problem with doing this. Thanks for your assistance.
Sounds okay.
I am running a 30 amp circuit, overhead, to 4 outbuildings requiring lighting and 1-20 amp GFI receptacle. I will install a 30 amp outdoor disc. on each building. Question: how many ground rods are required at each outbuilding and must I also run a ground wire from the main building to each of the outbuildings?
Each building that is stand alone requires its own ground system. This includes driving a ground rod and installing main breaker panel in each building.
Our kitchen has 9 8 outlets in fairly close proximity. While all of the outlets work, only one or two will work with items that draw a lot of amps like a toaster. The others can be used to charge phones, etc…but when you plug the toaster into them, it simply doesn’t work. Do certain outlets have amp limits? Or, is the circuit damaged or broken where only low amp items will work? Thoughts?
The kitchen should have all 20amp/110volt circuits today. But over the years prior that was not written in our NEC codebook. Using 15amp along with 20amp circuits was very common. But most likely if your breaker is tripping you have no problems. But if not you need to get that checked out.
I am replacing a push button switch on a dome light. The old switch had two black wires. The replacement I got from the mfg has a red, white, and black wire. What now?
Thanks
This switch seems to be a 3-way switch? Are you switching in 2 different locations? If not and you only need one switch you can still use this switch. Take the red or black to your dome light hot, then connect the other color to breaker, not the white. Then run your white(neutral) from breaker to the white in the dome bypassing the switch. And you done! All the switch is doing is breaking the hot from the breaker to the dome light and neutral does no switching at all, it just runs straight from breaker to the dome light neutral. If you wanted to run the neutral through the switch that is okay too. But switching the neutral is not common practice.
Hello,
Replaced broken ground wire that went to ground rod and then took an amp reading and showed 1.5amps.
Is this normal? Ground wire is bonded with service neutral wire and brakerbox ground and neutral connection bars
Did you use a bare unbroken copper #4 or #6? #4 is for 200amp service and #6 is for 100amp service. If you did this voltage reading should be fine. It varies due to electrical load. This ground is there to drain all stray voltage spikes somewhere other than back into the building. And to protect any lightening from coming into buildings. Not all the time but most of time it works.
Yes it’s being ran underground in conduit coming in from under my slab.
So underground wire is not required since you are going with underground conduit. What type of conduit are you planning to use in your project?
Also, I was reading back in your previous post and you stated you have a 200amp meter loop, what are you talking about here? The size of the triplex running from the pole to your meter riser connection point or the size of the wire running out of the meter base to your breaker panel?
Also where do you plan to put the new panel in the new shop? I hope in exterior wall and are you running this conduit under the new slab more than a couple feet? Codes does not allow underground feeder for electrical service to run past the footer in most localities. It has to turn up at that footer entry point and be placed on a exterior wall right above the entry point. Some localities allow 3-5ft past footer entry point but most want it to be mount directly above entry point of foot.
This is a residential Place in the country. I wan’t to use the 2-2-2-4 Aluminum wire to run to my panel box. I’m just putting in a 100 amp panel box, That should be ok right?
Is it being installed overhead or underground?
Also, if is it going to be underground will it be in conduit or no conduit?
Hi
I also built a new shop. Its a Crown Steel S type building and it is spray foam insulated. What is the best way to install the electrical wire and boxes . I dont want to drill or screw to many holes in the steel. The main box will need to screw to steel. I’m thinking to recess the boxes install wire then foam in a can to hold in place ??
NO, foam can not be used according to NEC. Approved straps for whatever type of wiring you plan on using is mandatory. I would use mc cable or bx.
How do you know what wire is needed to run for the service from meter loop to breaker box? Also how do you figure what amperage breaker box is needed?
National Electric Code (NEC)
I am trying to wire my new shop i had built for wood working I don’t have any Equipment that needs a 220 outlet as of yet but will need it eventually. I’m pretty sure I have a 200amp Meter loop and I know there is two different kinds of Panel boxes or breaker boxes you can use 100 and 200 amp. But I need to know which I need to use and if I need to use 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 or is there another size i could use or what?
Is this shop a residential or commercial? If residential the 4/0 alum is the only aluminum main serice feeder size you can use. Copper would be smaller size.
I forgot to mention the motor in the blower is RS755WC-8514
I need to throttle the motor speed of a 12VDC leaf blower. I was thinking a rheostat would do the job, but am having trouble properly sizing one. I have already tried a 2W 5 kilohm (Part#: RV4NAYSD502A), and a 12.5W 1 OHM (Part#: RES1R0) but they overheat. What size would I need?
This site is for residential wiring only.
Replaced an electrical wall outlet since the top plug was getting loose. Bottom plug of this outlet, and the top plug of another outlet on the same wall, are turned on using a light switch. The other plugs are live all the time. (I should say that I did not trip my breaker when doing this…when taking off the black wire on the outlet, it hit the metal part of the outlet, arc’d and tripped the breaker. that’s I get for not doing this the right way.) So, I changed out the outlet. Originally: Ground wire. White wire (pushed in the bottom back, not wrapped on the screw, Red wire on the bottom black side (pushed in the back), Black wire on the Top (wrapped on the screw). I set the wires exactly on the new outlet as the old one was configured. Now, the outlets are live all the time (like a normal outlet would be.) The wall switch no longer has any effect on either outlet. I double checked the wiring. I even checked the wiring on the back of the switch. (nice and snug). Did I kill the switch when it arc’d?
First thing you need to tell me is what type of switch circuit you are working on?
Ex: 3-way, single-pole.
The details of how many mistakes you made are irrevelent until I know this..So lets start with the type.
Thanks
I installed a Westinghouse can light conversion kit. However, I installed it onto a pop in can. Didn’t know I couldn’t do that( who reads directions right). No issue with working or any issue other than the grounding strap that comes on the crossbar. Apparently you are supposed to mount in to the can. I didn’t have that option so I cut a hole into the Pop in can and grounded it there. My question is: Does this create any hazards? Everything seems to be functioning properly. I just want to verify and not create a worry. The interior of the Pop in can is metal. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Altering UL listed products voids any waranty. As far as the operation after you altered… all I can tell you is to be careful about the alteration of electrical equipment. It can make something safe turn into a big hazard fairly quick. Let me know if you need any other help. I wish I could tell you it is fine but cant becuase there are hazards when modification of electrical products has been done. Did you cut the top out of a round recessed can light?
No sir…all i did was cut a notch in the metal Pop in can (since I couldn’t ground it to the side or inside any other way) and attached the ground strap. I did not alter the product in any other way besides the grounding strap location ( on the pop in can and not the inside fixture of the can housing…I couldn’t take out the pop in can because the socket has to be removed which would cause the conversion kit to plug into the dangling socket.) im sure this sounds confusing.
yes I am confused….I think starting over would be best.
The can light I have (Thomas) when removed from the ceiling has to have the light socket removed so the trim and baffle will come out. The conversion kit would not work with the socket out and dangling inside the remaining portion of the can light. So…I installed the conversion kit over the can light with the trim and baffle still installed (no issues) however the bracket has a ground strap ( supposed to clip to the interior can light, not possible with the type of can I have). So…I cut a notch into the metal baffle and attached the ground strap there. Does in your opinion meet the intent of the light being grounded. I never touched any of the can light wiring. Simple screwed in the can light conversion and wired a new light into the supplied wires attached to the can. I only changed the grounding location to the baffle instead of the can itself. Hopefully this clears it up.
As long as the grounding strap is legally connected to the metal portion of the fixture it should work. But location of grounding connections does matter. Take a picture and upload here. This will help me view whats going on.
In my bedroom I have a light fixture in the ceiling, there are three romex wires in this outlet. the light switch is a single romex wire in the wall for the switch not two. They have the black and white wire both on the switch. How do i make the connection for the light fixture?
If that one romex is running from switch to light fixture and all the others wires at the light fixture box are all hots and neutrals 9excluding the switch wires) you are in good shape. Let me know if all this is good.
Hi, I recently bought a rehab home and had to install a main service box, service entry wire, grounding rod and wire outside the home but the inside was intact. When I tried to get internet recently the tech discovered voltage flow through the coaxial cable from the cable box. What can cause this problem? any advise is appreciated! also the service box was installed under the supervision of an electrician but this problem just presented today!
You need to check your neutrals and bondings.
One of light fixtures has power but the bulbs will not burn. Can you tell me what the problem might be?
Where are you picking up the voltage? What color wires?
I’d like to know if I can safely shorten a set of Led christmas lights from 26′ to 16′. I have read that it will increase the voltage & I need to install a resister in the string. If this is true how do I go about doing it?
This may cause big problems in resistive string but not sure if you use LED. The old style used pure resistive lights and this is why a resistor had to be placed in parallel if any lights were removed. The lights were actually calculated as resistive values when they built a resistive string of lights but LED’s may not have enough resistance to actually matter. It would depend on the string wire size. To calculate the amperage offset caused by removing LED lights you would have to know the resistive value of each LED light.
You can use wattage to calculate also. At this time I don’t calculate for free. It is to time consuming but all you would have to do is get the electrical info off the specs part of your LED string and then look online for the ohms law and go from there.